Charles TienAn Ng illustrated my Maria Chen, inspired by a photograph by Jim Mangles

DATE

2023/05/26

ARTICLE

Maria Chen

PHOTOS

Courtesy of TienAn Ng, photographs by Jim Mangles.

Resurrecting Londons First Chinatown: An Interview with Artist TienAn Ng

Discover how the Singapore-born sculptor uses porcelain to excavate the erased history, myths, and memories of East London’s forgotten Chinese heritage at St Anne’s Limehouse.

In the shifting landscape of East London, few histories feel as simultaneously present and erased as that of Limehouse — once home to London’s first Chinatown. Long before Soho became synonymous with Chinese culture in Britain, Limehouse’s riverside streets were shaped by generations of Chinese sailors, laundries, lodging houses, restaurants, gambling rooms, and families who built lives along the docks. Today, little remains visibly intact. Yet for artist TienAn Ng, that disappearance became the beginning of an obsession.

Born in Singapore and shaped by both colonial and diasporic histories, Ng approaches Limehouse not simply as a researcher, but as someone personally haunted by the absence of what once existed. Moving to the area and discovering that this internationally mythologised Chinatown had almost entirely vanished left him with what he describes as a “palpable sense of loss and bereavement”. That emotional tension — between memory and erasure, fiction and lived reality, nostalgia and historical violence — runs through his work and forms the emotional core of Chinese Limehouse at St Anne’s Limehouse.

Working primarily in porcelain and sculpture, Ng reconstructs fragments of a lost world through ceramic “mortuary houses”, recreated shop interiors, archival references, and imagined spatial memories. His practice draws together oral histories, inherited cultural memory, material research, and lived experience of the neighbourhood itself. The result is neither straightforward historical reconstruction nor romantic nostalgia, but something more layered: an attempt to materially reanimate a community that profoundly shaped Britain’s cultural imagination while simultaneously being marginalised within it.

Throughout this conversation with CNTRFLD.ART, Ng reflects on diaspora, identity, memory, migration, preservation, and the complicated afterlife of representation. He speaks candidly about growing up between cultures, the seduction and damage of Limehouse mythology, and the realities of sustaining an artistic practice after an earlier career in dentistry. At a moment when conversations around Asian identity, heritage, migration, and cultural memory continue to evolve globally, his work offers a deeply personal perspective on how histories survive — not only through archives, but through materials, streets, inherited stories, and acts of artistic reconstruction.

For younger creatives especially, Ng’s journey is also a reminder that artistic paths are rarely linear. Curiosity, lived experience, and persistence matter just as much as formal trajectories. His practice demonstrates how art can emerge not from fixed identity, but from the intersection of places, histories, and lives continually in motion.

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CREDITS

Header: Dopehead

Slider 1: St Anne's gallery

Slider 2: Dopehead detail

"When I came to Limehouse, only to find a row of flats and Bet-freds and nothing remaining of the Chinese, there was an almost palpable sense of loss and bereavement, that such a vibrant and internationally famous community was not only dead and gone but obliterated without trace. I wanted to resurrect this lost Chinatown and make it renowned again..."—TienAn Ng

CNTRFLD. Limehouse’s Chinatown emerged in the late 19th century through seafaring communities, yet today almost no visible trace remains. When you first became aware of that disappearance—living so close to its former centre—what struck you most on a personal level, and how did that moment begin to shape your work for Chinese Limehouse at St Anne’s?

TN. I was born and brought up in Singapore at the tail end of empire, and even there Limehouse Chinatown was well known to us through literature and popular culture. For all its flaws, that vision of river mists, forbidden love, opium dens and Sherlock Holmes was intriguing and alluring. When I came to Limehouse, only to find a row of flats and Bet-freds and nothing remaining of the Chinese, there was an almost palpable sense of loss and bereavement, that such a vibrant and internationally famous community was not only dead and gone but obliterated without trace. I wanted to resurrect this lost Chinatown and make it renowned again, and this has been the inspiration for my recent work.

CNTRFLD. Your sculptures in this exhibition evoke a place that has largely disappeared. How do you approach translating fragmented histories—oral, archival, imagined—into physical form?

TN. Researching archives has been illuminating and fascinating, but there is always a sense of distance, looking at black and white photographs and the antiquated prose from contemporary newspaper clippings. Interviewing descendants of these original Chinese pioneers, and seeing their family heirlooms, gave better insight. But it is in really living in the area, walking its streets, and assimilating the environment with its rich history, that I find best inspiration – the odd street sign, a long closed school, some old cobblestones, and even the indestructible shards of porcelain retrieved from the foreshore of the Thames, that evoke not only the voices of the past but the smells, and its sounds, its resilience. Is it imagined? Perhaps, but there is a sense in Limehouse of the weight of history and a burden to tell these stories to the world.

My sculptures represent the coming together of time, space and matter. Here I am, a Chinese person researching the history of the Chinese, having travelled halfway across the world to be here, where they once were 100 years ago, and working with the same medium, porcelain.  Limehouse has long associations with both China and china; the East India Company brought in Chinese sailors to these Thames-side docks to import porcelain. Limehouse itself was named for its lime kilns to burn chalk, but also later to fuel the local pottery industries of Bow and the like. And amazingly, one of the first "manufactories " to attempt to copy bone-china was set up in Narrow Street in Limehouse in the 1740s. It seemed fated that I should materialise Chinatown history using clay as my medium. Moreover, I discovered that the second recorded Chinese visitor to Britain was, of all things, an artist, and a ceramicist to boot. He exhibited at and was included in the famous Zoffany group portrait of founder RA members and established a shop making porcelain bust heads for Englishmen. My sculpture of an opium smoker with his head disappearing in a puff of smoke, is my response to Tan Chi Qua, and to the British who returned the favour by turning a generation of Chinese into "Dopeheads".

The main problem in putting together displays was the complete lack of anything physical surviving from the old Chinatown. The solution was to recreate some of the Chinatown buildings as ceramic sculptures from archival photographs to give a more tangible physical manifestation. These “mortuary houses” allude to the traditional grave goods of ancient emperors, such as the ceramics of the Tang dynasty, and I hope they are appropriate (and beautiful) monuments to a dead and gone Chinatown.

I also wanted to recreate some of the iconic Chinese shop interiors such as the Hop Lee Laundry and the PakaPoo gambling house. Whilst these started off as immersive props to illustrate the history of the urban community, the ancient walls of St Anne’s, with its fantastic patina derived from multiple layers of centuries of historic accretion, provided a sublime backdrop that elevates these installations into pieces that I am proud to show.

CNTRFLD. Growing up in Singapore, you had a very different image of “Chinatown” shaped by colonial histories and popular culture. Looking back, how did your childhood environment influence the way you now think about place, memory, and representation?

TN. My childhood home couldn’t have been more different from London. Growing up surrounded by tropical forests and reefs, in a huge extended family of gregarious aunts uncles and cousins, playing through the shops, hawker centres and festivals of a multicultural city, left me with many happy recollections. Although I return regularly, the passing of older generations, wholesale redevelopment of Singapore, and even the spread of affluence has combined to leave them only memories. I have learnt how transient and precious these moments are, to live in the moment and to value and preserve them for the future.

CNTRFLD. Much of this exhibition moves between myth and lived reality—between Fu Manchu caricatures and the everyday lives of families who built communities here. How do you navigate that tension in your work without simplifying either side?

TN. We approached this by having separate curators for the Myth and Reality sides of the exhibition. Philip and Jude Reddaway presented all the material from popular culture and press of the time, of course pointing out all the prejudices and injustices that much of this was built on. Whilst I put together the historical displays from actual facts, I couldn’t help as an artist finding the fictional side of Chinatown, even with all its negative aspects, so much more colourful and seductive. But this was always tempered by the knowledge that these Western confections had real and adverse effects not only on the residents of Chinatown but worldwide repercussions in Sinophobia, the Opium wars, and the like. This tension is one of the themes of the exhibition, and something we would like visitors to think about contemporary world affairs and take away with them.

CNTRFLD. Your work often engages with identity and diaspora in fluid, understated ways rather than fixed definitions. Having lived across different cultural contexts, how has your understanding of identity evolved over time, and how does that perspective surface in your practice today?

TN. My ancestry is Chinese, I was brought up Singaporean in culture, and I have been anglicized by 40 years in this country and a “colonial” upbringing. I suppose I could regard myself as a stranger and an alien here, but I have learnt to value every moment in every time and every place and to live them to the full. In this age of jet travel I don’t think we have to be defined by a country or race, and I wouldn’t want my work to be merely representative, or worse, tokenistic, but to stand on their own merits (or not).

Having said that, art can only ever be a product of all one’s life experiences, and I think my USP would be in bringing different worlds together. One example would be my “mortuary houses”. I have seen Chinese houses, and Limehouse Chinatown houses, and I was struck by how little it took to transform the ambience of a standard Georgian street into Chinatown; just a pasted-on shop sign, a lantern in the window, the smell of joss sticks. 

The look of Chinatown was achieved by superficial application of decoration, but it was the life and business of the Chinese inhabitants that made Chinatown. I have attempted to express this in my pieces, with a thin seam of porcelain running through the London stock. Appearances are only skin-deep. Identity need not be tribal; it can be derived from fusion of many influences but is always unique.

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CREDITS

Image 1: St Anne's over Chinatown

Image 2: Chinatown Shopfronts

Image 3: Hop Lee Chinese Laundry

Image 4: Mortuary Houses

Image 5: Paka Poo

Divider: Mortuary Houses context

CNTRFLD. For many in the UK, the idea that Limehouse was London’s first Chinatown is still unfamiliar. From your perspective, what does it mean to contribute to a kind of cultural re-memory or re-education in this context?

TN. As a person of Chinese heritage, this is a privilege and an honour! Serendipity brought me to live right in the heart of the former Chinatown, and I would not want to waste any opportunities to tell the stories of its people, ka-kee nang, my people. Despite so many obstacles and persecution, this small community thrived and was so distinctive and vibrant that it had a disproportionately massive impact on the Western imagination and changed the world. 

For newer Chinese residents of London, and there are many locally, I would like them to know that their ancestors have had a presence in these streets for hundreds of years and still call it home; and to be very proud of their achievements and contribution to the building of this nation.

And finally, to make known the legacy of Limehouse Chinatown. Although it seems to have disappeared without trace, it lives on not only in their living descendants, but in the legacy of food, entertainment, and increasingly, popular culture that contributes so much to the richness and variety of life in 21st century Britain. These first hardy immigrants were truly trailblazers for the multicultural, exciting and dynamic international capital that London has become. I would love to make Limehouse as famous as it was a hundred years ago, and to have tourist parties come once again to the East End.

CNTRFLD. Support systems in the arts can look very different depending on where you are. From your experience, what has been most meaningful in sustaining your practice—and where do you feel gaps still exist, particularly for diasporic artists?

TN. I suspect I am very different from many artists you feature, in that I qualified and practised as a dental surgeon before returning to my love of sculpting recently. Many of my skills such as carving, casting, impression making, etc., have been transferable, and starting later I find I have a deeper well of interests and life experience to distill my work from. I know I am in a fortunate position to self-fund, and just how difficult it is to build a body of work and a CV, to publicise, make, and still earn a crust.

As for diasporic artists in particular, I feel the tide is turning for us, with the current domination of not just the visual arts but culture in general by ESEAN artists especially from Korea and Japan, and of the opening up of the art market in places like Singapore. 

It was certainly much harder for previous generations who had to suffer the burden of the prejudices and racism that the exhibition document. I think, for example, of my aunt, Kim Lim, who came to St Martins and the Slade in the 50s, and was largely overlooked in her lifetime. She never got to see her recent retrospectives at the Tate and the Hepworth, but we owe these pioneers for their unrelenting efforts that have given us better representation in the art world.

For many in my generation modernisation was not just a matter of progress but of survival. The headlong rush towards first world status in Singapore led to great GDP but also the abandonment of much irreplaceable culture. A good visual sign is the wholesale demolition of entire districts of colonial architecture to be replaced by the generic International Modern skyscrapers of Global Wealth, and the belated recognition of the value of what was destroyed - something that played out in Limehouse Chinatown a century earlier. But of course, these glass and steel towers will become the treasured memories of generations hence. What I really appreciate about London is the variety of survivals of small alleys and historic buildings that allow us to return to our memories and explore new ones. The patchwork of China- and Bangla- and other towns that make London a true world city. And of course, its rich living culture in visual, aural and performing arts; who can fail to be inspired?

Overcome that old Asian cliche, that if you're anything other than an accountant, doctor or lawyer, you've failed! Now that Asia and AI are in the ascendant, it is the creative skills of human imagination that are lacking. Although there is some truth in the other old Asian parent adage, that you should always have something under your belt before risking starvation in the garret.

And secondly, have faith in your art. As a professional I was used to people coming to me to seek my services, but now I'm an artist I have found I need to hustle! My best commissions have come when I truly believe my work is good enough for me to recommend people to buy them.

Last, live in the place and the moment, be curious and have many interests, and use them to make new things!

About the artist

TienAn Ng is a Singapore-born British sculptor and multidisciplinary artist whose practice explores cultural memory, diaspora, material history, and the intersection between East and West. Working primarily with porcelain and ceramic sculpture, his work frequently engages with themes of migration, identity, architecture, preservation, and historical erasure.

Raised in Singapore during the final years of British colonial influence and later based in London for over four decades, Ng’s perspective is shaped by multiple cultural worlds simultaneously. This layered experience informs a practice that resists fixed notions of identity, instead embracing hybridity, historical overlap, and the emotional complexities of belonging.

Ng’s recent work has focused extensively on the forgotten history of Limehouse Chinatown — London’s original Chinatown established by Chinese seafaring communities in the nineteenth century. Through sculptural reconstructions, immersive installations, and archival research, he reimagines vanished urban spaces while examining how Chinese communities were mythologised within Western popular culture. His ceramic “mortuary houses”, inspired partly by traditional Chinese funerary objects, function as poetic memorials to communities displaced through war, redevelopment, and social change.

Before returning professionally to sculpture, Ng trained and worked as a dental surgeon, bringing highly refined technical skills in carving, casting, and material manipulation into his artistic practice. This unusual trajectory has become central to his approach, combining craftsmanship, historical research, and lived experience with an acute sensitivity to material and form.

His work sits at the intersection of contemporary sculpture, social history, and diasporic storytelling, contributing to wider conversations around Asian representation, migration histories, and cultural preservation in Britain today.


Limehouse Chinatown The Original Chinatown: Myths and Realities

until July 2026.

Care for St Anne’s, 5 Newell Street, Limehouse, London, E14 7HP 

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